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Sunday, March 2, 2014

Must-See Best European Cities Of The East

By Mitchell Jones


When asked about the best European cities, does your mind fill with images of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the Spanish Steps in Rome, the Ramblas in Barcelona or St. Paul's Cathedral in London? That seems to be the case for most of us, but I suspect this is just a kind of hangover of the imagination lingering from the years of the Cold War, when Eastern Europe was simply inaccessible to most of us.

Time to catch up to reality! Times have changed. Yes, it's true, these eastern gems don't glimmer like back in the 90s, when the doors suddenly blew open. Nonetheless, the cities of Eastern Europe are still great opportunities and bargains. Stunning architecture, delicious food, delightful culture, economizing costs and people still not yet jaded by tourism: these remain the hallmarks of the best European cities of the east.

Check out our top three must-see East European cities:

BUCHAREST

If #3 takes you by surprised, we're not surprised. Its charms remain still widely unacknowledged in mainstream tourism. This fact likely contributes to its appeal. We offer fair warning, though, don't wait too long or this lovely gem could be swamped by the time you get there.

Dubbed little Paris as a result of its distinctive French influence, Bucharest is a great city that survived the bleakest of the bleak Iron Curtain totalitarians in far better shape than might have been anticipated. Back in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, before the Communists got hold of it, Bucharest experienced a developmental flourishing.

This included great achievements in architecture and culture. Noteworthy among these were construction of Bucharest University, Grand Hotel du Boulevard, the Botanical Garden, the Atheneum, and the iconic Casa Capsa.

Among the city's other little Paris legacies are its wide, tree-lined boulevards, glorious Belle Epoque buildings and a reputation for the high style. All this makes the bustling metropolis that is Romania's largest city and capital a must see among aficionados of the best European cities of the east. Oh, and Dracula himself lived here. So, really.

2. PRAGUE

True, our second on the list isn't quite the surprise as the #3 spot. Don't though make the mistake of letting its predictability put you off a truly remarkable experience. This may be among the best-known East European cities, but, make no mistake; it comes by its reputation honestly.

A city awash in dazzling architecture, it is replete with unending eye-candy vistas of bridges, cathedrals, gold-tipped towers and church domes. Perhaps most impressively it somehow is able to beautifully blend the old, medieval center characterized by cobbled lanes, walled courtyards, cathedrals and countless church spires, with the modern city, packed with excellent fine dining restaurants, and all the sublime music and art you could wish for.

It goes without saying, when you're visiting Prague there are certain venues you simply have to experience. At the top of that list are the Charles Bridge, the Prague Castle/St. Vitus Cathedral, and the Old Town Square, with its well-known Astronomical Clock. Goodness, though, don't stop there. There are too many other marvelous secrets to discover.

Top on our list are the cafes of Prague. Well, sure, you may say, the city is famous for its grand cafes. True, but did you know that the real gems, which most tourists never even see, are tucked away up on what they call the first floor? That's where you look to find the city's most refined and atmospheric downtown cafes.

These are amazingly overlooked by most tourists. But, trust me, you will be astounded by the remarkable period interiors. The coffee is a constant delight. And the venues come well appointed with a smart clientele exuding old European charm. Top choices include the Grand Cafe Orient above the Cubist Museum and Cafe Louvre, which, back in the day, enjoyed the regular patronage of Franz Kafka and Albert Einstein.

KRAKOW

If you found the second place on our list a bit predictable, you probably won't think the same of our position of honor. Krakow though is indeed a precious find; it hides away some of the best kept secrets of Europe: beautiful architecture and old world charm are everywhere. Krakow's restaurants enjoy a deserved reputation for being quaint, atmospheric eateries with excellent food, for very affordable prices.

Don't, though, let its relative freshness on the tourist trail mislead you. Krakow is no longer undiscovered. Steven Spielberg's awarding film, Shindler's List, both shot and based on events that took place here, has changed all that. The tourism at this point, though, remains located in very specific parts of town. If you want to get away and see the real Krakow, it still can be done. The best tip we can offer is this: get over to Podgrze.

A working-class area being slowly revitalized by Krakow's boho set, seeking refuge from the tourist influx into the town center and Jewish district, Podgrze is surprising easy to access. Simply cross the Laetus Bernatek footbridge. It's easy to do, but most tourists just don't venture across it. Once you're into Podgrze, you'll find a vibrant area with plenty of bars and cafes, for all tastes. You'll have to choose what the right flavor is for you.

One place we would highly recommend, though, is Klub Drukarnia. It is a swinging jazz club and offers the bonus of being able to enjoy spectacular sunset vistas over the Wisla River. The club's basement is the setting for frequent concerts and DJ nights. Features include a saloon-style smoking room and a smarter side with velvet seats and a long bar with huge windows providing a glorious panorama over the river.

The coolest thing on this side of the river, though, and in fact, an experience so surreal, it was what tipped the balance to making Krakow our number one pick is Liban Quarry. You've got to check this out! It was a working quarry of a 19th century Jewish owned limestone company. Nazis made it into a forced labor camp. When serious about forced labor, as were the Nazis, it means worked-to-death.

Following the war this area was turned into a memorial to the victims of Nazi atrocities. However, it seems that irony was yet to have the last laugh. For, as the decades have gone by, the city has turned its back on the quarry. As a consequence, gradually, nature reclaimed it. Once a thriving business reflecting Jewish acumen, then a blight of Nazi barbarism, it now is a spontaneous wildlife sanctuary. Home to waterfowl, birds of prey, pheasants and various other animals, the Liban Quarry seems to have found its own peace. Still, when looking over the rusting refinery equipment and memorial gravestones surrounded by ponds and draped in dense vegetation, ever surveyed by the sentinels of limestone cliffs, symbolism endlessly forces itself upon the imagination. I'll leave you to your own interpretations.

If a visit to Liban Quarry, as it often does, leaves you feeling a little melancholy, maybe even spooked, I suggest you finish off your day with a heart warming nightcap. Coming back across the bridge from Podgrze you'll discover two delightful cafes just on the city side. These are Mostowy Art Cafe, a large and elegant gallery cafe, and its next door neighbor, the more modest Po Drodze. The latter is a cosy old kitchen cafe where they'll spice up your coffee with a vodka shot. That's the way to end your day.




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