Perhaps the most famous fear for surfers are sharks. The danger is authentic, along with stingrays and poisonous jellyfish migrations and fire corals, but there are many other things a surfer has to worry about besides Cthulhu. For the newbie wave rider, ocean animals are the least of his worries if he fails to consider the basic elements of surfing safety.
The art of riding the waves has been defined in 1769. From ratchet boards to Walden surfboards created by the father of the modern longboard, surfing has been enjoyed for centuries for the naturally adventurous. It has also caused many accidents and deaths just like any high risk sport, but by knowing your limits and considering the factors, you will live to surf for many years to come.
Reading the weather is the first step in ocean safety. For beginners, you should be able to understand how the ocean behaves and why, and how the weather would affect it. More often than not, the ocean is unpredictable, so do not go in when you are doubtful. There is always another day and another wave.
You can observe where the waves are consistently breaking and ask another surfer who just got in the water if the conditions are alright. Watch how the surfers on the water are drifting and how much effort they spend for paddling. If you are alone and you feel that the waves are too big or the ocean is simply too messy, be smarter and surf another day.
Check the features of the landscape. Keep your distance when you see jetties. Cliffs and piers are for very experienced surfers only, so steer clear from them if you are just starting to learn how to ride the waves. Look out for rocks and other geological obstacle that may impair or disfigure you.
Waves are two faced. They can either be your source of pure ecstasy or terrible fear. The size of the waves represent how hazardous they are, so stick to smaller ones if you are still a noob. Keep in mind that a cubic yard of water weighs almost a ton, so be careful even if you think the wave seems to be very cute. Again, let the veterans handle the crumbling and hollow waves.
The same rule applies with currents. Rips are very strong currents formed by retreating waves and can be recognizable because it flows back. Avoid them lest you are a pro or a very experienced surfer. Never surf back against a rip current if you are ever caught in one. Those that paddle parallel to shore are called longshore currents. They are also dangerous as they can drag you, so be knowledgeable about them and learn how to overcome them. Never panic when you are caught in a strong current.
Follow etiquette. The biggest hazard of all is not the landscape or the waterscape which you can just avoid, but other surfers. Be careful with crowded breaks and expect surfboards to be flying all around you. So do not be a kook and follow the honor system and respect other surfers.
Know how to swim. The ocean is not the same as your good old swimming pool. Swimming pools do not have currents that can drag you and make swimming difficult. You should also note that your surfboard is not a flotation device, it is a sports equipment. Chances are, your surfboard will be flying out of reach when you wipe out, so do not rely on your surfboard for your safety, rely on your swimming skills.
The art of riding the waves has been defined in 1769. From ratchet boards to Walden surfboards created by the father of the modern longboard, surfing has been enjoyed for centuries for the naturally adventurous. It has also caused many accidents and deaths just like any high risk sport, but by knowing your limits and considering the factors, you will live to surf for many years to come.
Reading the weather is the first step in ocean safety. For beginners, you should be able to understand how the ocean behaves and why, and how the weather would affect it. More often than not, the ocean is unpredictable, so do not go in when you are doubtful. There is always another day and another wave.
You can observe where the waves are consistently breaking and ask another surfer who just got in the water if the conditions are alright. Watch how the surfers on the water are drifting and how much effort they spend for paddling. If you are alone and you feel that the waves are too big or the ocean is simply too messy, be smarter and surf another day.
Check the features of the landscape. Keep your distance when you see jetties. Cliffs and piers are for very experienced surfers only, so steer clear from them if you are just starting to learn how to ride the waves. Look out for rocks and other geological obstacle that may impair or disfigure you.
Waves are two faced. They can either be your source of pure ecstasy or terrible fear. The size of the waves represent how hazardous they are, so stick to smaller ones if you are still a noob. Keep in mind that a cubic yard of water weighs almost a ton, so be careful even if you think the wave seems to be very cute. Again, let the veterans handle the crumbling and hollow waves.
The same rule applies with currents. Rips are very strong currents formed by retreating waves and can be recognizable because it flows back. Avoid them lest you are a pro or a very experienced surfer. Never surf back against a rip current if you are ever caught in one. Those that paddle parallel to shore are called longshore currents. They are also dangerous as they can drag you, so be knowledgeable about them and learn how to overcome them. Never panic when you are caught in a strong current.
Follow etiquette. The biggest hazard of all is not the landscape or the waterscape which you can just avoid, but other surfers. Be careful with crowded breaks and expect surfboards to be flying all around you. So do not be a kook and follow the honor system and respect other surfers.
Know how to swim. The ocean is not the same as your good old swimming pool. Swimming pools do not have currents that can drag you and make swimming difficult. You should also note that your surfboard is not a flotation device, it is a sports equipment. Chances are, your surfboard will be flying out of reach when you wipe out, so do not rely on your surfboard for your safety, rely on your swimming skills.
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